panels, each holding its own pane. In addition to its aesthetic appeal, this design makes the glass less prone to breaking and also cheaper to replace.
Glass is available in various thicknesses and types. For door-making purposes, the most commonly used variety is sheet or window glass, available in thicknesses up to lA inch.
Clamp the frame to a work surface, using a wood pad for protection. Then install a /s-inch rabbeting bit on a router and set the depth of cut to the combined thickness of the glass and the molding. Hold the tool firmly with both hands while resting the baseplate on the frame near one corner, then turn on the
router and guide the bit into the inside edge of the door. Move the router clockwise along the edges (above, left) until the cut is completed. Square the corners with a wooden mallet and a wood chisel (above, right). Make the cuts with the grain first to avoid splitting the frame.
2 Routing the molding
Install a decorative molding bit on the router, then mount the tool in a router table. Choose a board long enough to produce the length of molding you need. To secure the stock, install two featherboards on the router table—one pressing the workpiece toward the fence and one pressing down directly above the router. (Here, the upper featherboard has been removed for clarity.) Turn on the tool and feed the workpiece into the bit while keeping the board flush against the fence. Finish the pass using a push stick. Repeat the step to rout a second molding in the opposite edge of the workpiece (left), then rip the two from the stock with a table saw. Saw the molding to the proper length, making 45° miter cuts at the ends of each piece. Cut and fit one piece at a time, making sure you align the miter cuts with the corners of the rabbets.