The pigeonhole unit is made to fit between the tops of the desk and drawer sections of the secretary. Molding can be tacked in place to hide the gap between the two carcases, as shown at left. You can also omit the molding, leaving the pigeonhole unit removable.
MAKING THE UNIT
Rough-cutting the arches
Referring to the anatomy illustration of the pigeonhole unit (page 108), outline the shape of the arches on a piece of %-inch plywood, cut it out, and smooth the edges to fashion a template that you will use to make a routing jig (step 2). Before assembling the jig, use the template to outline six copies of the shape on your arch stock. Cut out the arches to within H inch of your cutting lines using the band saw... >
Fastened to a box-like jig that rides along the bed of a lathe, the router shown at left plows a flute in a quarter column. For instructions on building and using this jig, refer to page 120.
COMMERCIAL JIGS AND ACCESSORIES
Lightweight enough to be used in freehand routing (page 134)
Converts a router into a fluting tool. As on a lathe, stock is mounted on the jig between centers; router is fastened to a metal platform. Turning the crank rotates the workpiece and moves router platform along a guide rail, enabling the cutter to shape the stock along its length. The height of the platform is adjustable to set cutting depth of bit
Some joint-making jigs go well beyond the merely functional and allow a router to create joints that give equal weight to decoration... >
Д wooden briefcase should have all /Л the features of any well-made briefcase: clean, attractive lines and lightweight strength. With a material such as wood, this can present a challenge, since strength and lightness are an uncommon combination. When sizing your stock, make the briefcase frame as thin as possible without sacrificing solidity. If you are using walnut or cherry, the stock should be at least A inch thick. The side panels of the briefcase should also be sturdy, since they help hold the unit together and keep the frame square. A good choice is /4-inch hardwood plywood. The side panels of the case shown in the photo at right arc made of solid white cedar boards edge-glued togeth >
The desk unit drawers are assembled with through dovetails, then a false front is glued to the drawer front to conceal the end grain of the tails. The chamfer cut around the perimeter of the false front shown above recalls the traditional practice of beveling the ends and edges of veneered drawer fronts, which prevented the veneer from being torn off when the drawer was opened and closed.
GLUING UP THE DRAWERS
Routing the through dovetail joints
Size the drawer parts to fit their openings in the desk unit, then join the boards with dovetails, cutting the pins in the front and back of the drawer, and the tails in the sides... >
A jewelry box should do more than keep the dust off valuables. It should also suggest strength and security—and express the elegance of its contents. The box shown in the photo at left satisfies these requirements in a number of ways. It is made from an exotic hardwood—
pau ferro—and is joined at the corners by through dovetails, a sturdy joint that adds visual interest. The half-mortise lock protects the contents from prying fingers and accents the design of the piece. The tray inside the box features dividers for sorting smaller items and is assembled with finger joints.
For a box of the proportions shown, use ‘A – to %-inch-thick stock for the the
box and %-inch-thick wood for the trav.
To protect the jewelry from scratches, you can line the inside of the box and tray with a so... >
Caned and panel backs are two popular and attractive options for frame chairs. To make a caned back (below), all you need is some stock for the rails and mullions and a piece of prewoven cane. You can weave the back from individual strands of cane, following instructions starting on page 83. Cut tenons at the ends of the rails to fit into mortises in the rear legs and at the ends of the mullions to join with the rails. The cane fits into a groove cut into the rails and mullions.
The panel for a panel back is cut on a band saw (page 122), then fitted into
A CANED BACK
Preparing the rails and mullions
Cut the grooves in the rails and mullions on a router table... >
Like their counterparts in human anatomy, legs in cabinetmaking serve mainly as supports. But furniture legs play an equally important esthetic role, complementing and setting off for display anything from a carcase to a chair.
Whatever the style of legs, the challenges of making them are several: shape and proportion must be perfectly in balance with the rest of the piece of furniture, and the leg must also provide adequate support. The goal is to achieve a balance between strength and beauty.
This chapter will show you how to make four popular leg types: cabriole, tapered, octagonal and square legs. Several methods of attaching legs are also presented. Taken together, these leg types and joinery techniques offer attractive alternatives for a wide range of furniture styles.