Accurately determining depth is essential to faceplate turning; too deep a cut can ruin a bowl. Made from solid wood stock, the bowl – depth gauge shown at right features a pair of perpendicular Vi-inch dowels; the holes for the dowels overlap so that the longer dowel can be adjusted and wedged in place by the shorter, tapered one. Marking depth increments on the long dowel will speed setup.
The jig shown above will turn your lathe into a powerful drum sander. Start by routing a ^-inch-wide, %-inch-deep groove along the center of one side of a square blank about 14 inches in length. Mount the blank on the lathe and turn it into a cylinder 3V2 inches in diameter. Next, cut a sheet of sandpaper to wrap around the cylinder; its ends should overlap at the bottom
of the groove. To hold the sandpaper in place, make a hardwood strip to fit in the groove and screw it in place (above, left). To use the sanding drum, mount it between the head – stock and tailstock of the lathe. You can then use the drum to sand workpieces with curved contours, such as a cabriole leg (above, right).
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