The vacuum system shown here is an excellent way to anchor feather- boards to work tables and fasten templates to workpieces. The system is more convenient than conventional clamping and offers as much holding power without risking damage to stock. The only limitation is that mating surfaces must be flat and smooth.
To set up a vacuum system, you need the parts shown in the photo at left. The tape is fastened to the underside of the featherboard or template, creating a cavity. The hose from the pump is inserted in a hole in the featherboard or template. When the jig is placed on the surface, the pump sucks the air from the cavity, producing a vacuum. Any pump rated at 3 cubic feet per minute or higher is adequate for the home workshop... >
1 Making the jig
Shaping circular work freehand on the shaper is a risky job. One way to make the task safer and more precise is to use a V – block jig like the one shown at left. Build it from a piece of %-inch plywood about 14 inches wide and 24 inches long. To customize the jig for your shaper, hold it above the table flush with the back edge and mark the location of the spindle on the surface. Cut a right-angle wedge out of the jig, locating the apex of the angle at your marked point. Then cut a circle out of the jig centered on the apex; the hole should be large enough to accommodate the largest cutter you plan to use with the jig... >
1 Building the jig
The jig shown at left allows you to rout sliding dovetails (inset) without a router table. Cut the fence, table, and support piece from  /4-inch plywood. Make all the boards 16 inches long; the fence and table should be about 10 inches wide and the support piece about 3 inches wide. Screw the table to the table support so they form an L. Position the table 4 inches from the bottom of the fence and bore two holes through opposite ends of the fence into the table support. Use a router with a straight bit to lengthen the hole on the outfeed side of the fence into a curved slot. Attach the table support to the fence with carriage bolts, washers, and wing nuts... >
1 Building the jig
The jig shown at left is ideal for routing grooves in a rectangular pattern; it can also be fitted with templates for curved cuts. Saw the guides from l-by-2 stock and rout a groove % inch deep and wide along the inside edge of each one. Cut a two-shouldered tenon at one end of each guide to fit in the grooves and bore a pilot hole into the middle of each tenon for a %-inch-diameter hanger bolt. Screw the bolts in place, leaving enough thread protruding to feed it through the adjacent edge guide with a washer and wing nut. Finally, rout %-inch-wide mortises through the guides; start about Ш inches from the end with the tenon and make the mortises 4 inches long, separating them with about H inch of wood... >
1 Building the jig
Featuring a fence and tilting table, the jig shown at left enables you to raise panels using a router without mounting the tool in a table. The jig is clamped in a bench vise. Cut all the pieces of the jig from %-inch plywood; the dimensions suggested in the illustration will work well with a typical workbench. Start assembling the jig by screwing the brackets to the underside of the table at one end, then cut adjustment slots through the arms. Secure the top ends of the arms to the brackets and the bottom ends to the fence using hanger bolts, washers, and wing nuts. Attach the table to the fence with a piano hinge positioned about 6 inches below the top of the fence... >
1 Constructing the jig
For curving the corners of a workpiece, you can use the simple corner-rounding jig shown at right. The jig consists of a plywood base and two lips that align the edges of the jig and the workpiece. Cut the base from %-inch plywood. For most jobs, a base about 10 inches wide and 16 inches long will be adequate. Draw the curve you wish to rout on one corner of the base and cut it with a band saw or a saber saw; sand the edge smooth. Cut the lips from solid stock Уг inch thick and IV2 inches wide, then nail or screw the pieces to the base, leaving about 3 to 4 inches between each lip and the rounded corner. The top edge of the lips should be flush with the top surface of the base. 
1 Building the jig
A jig like the one shown at left will allow your router to cut hinge mortises quickly and accurately. To make the cuts, you will need to equip your router with a straight bit and a template guide. Build the template from a piece of  /4-inch plywood. Size it wide enough to support the router. Outline the hinge leaf on the template; remember to compensate for the template guide and the thickness of the fence, which is also made from 3/4-inch plywood. Cut out the template, then attach the fence with countersunk screws.
An auxiliary subbase for wide cuts
To make a cut that is wider than a particular router bit, you would normally make one pass, shift your edge guide and make a second pass. Or, you can use this auxiliary off-square sub-base.
Cut a piece of Winch plywood into an S>-inch square. Remove the router’s sub-base and bore the screw holes and clearance hole for the bit through the auxiliary sub-base so the tool will be centered on the jig. Next, cut Vie inch of wood from one edge of the sub-base, Ye inch from an adjacent edge, and Ya inch from a third edge. Mark the amounts you removed on each side. Screw the jig to the router and make a pass with the uncut end flush against the guide... >
Comprising two hardwood dowels and a center block, this adjustable jig allows your router to cut circles of virtually any diameter. The jig is assembled by slipping the dowels into the accessory holes in the router base plate, fixing the dowels to the block, and attaching the block to the center of the circle marked on the workpiece. With wood cleats holding the stock to a work surface, the router bit is aligned with the end of the circle’s marked radius and the screws that clamp the dowels to the base plate are tightened. The circle can then be routed.
Making the jig and routing a circle
To cut larger circles than most commercial guides allow, use the compass jig shown at right. Make the device from Winch hardboard, sizing it to suit your router... >