Category SHOP-MADE JIGS AND FIXTURES

DADOING JIGS

 

A T-SQUARE JIG

 

1 Building the jig

To rout dadoes that are straight and square to the edges of your stock, use a T-square jig like the one shown above. Make the jig from %-inch plywood, siz­ing the pieces to suit the stock you will be using and the diameter of your rout­er base plate. The edge guide should be about 4 inches wide and longer than the workpiece’s width; the fence, also about 4 inches wide, should extend on either side of the guide by about the width of the router base plate. Assemble the jig by attaching the fence to the edge guide with countersunk screws. Use a try square to make certain the two pieces are perpendicular to each other...

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ROUTING. AND SHAPING JIGS

ROUTING. AND SHAPING JIGSПодпись: Freestanding shaper guard (page 33) Triangular cutter guard with view hole for freehand shaping ROUTING. AND SHAPING JIGS

Since its invention early in the 20th Century, the router has become one of the most popular portable power tools—and with good reason. Few tools can match its speed, accuracy, and ver­satility for shaping wood or cutting joints. But jigs are almost a necessity; although the router can be used free­hand, most cuts require a guide—par­ticularly repeat cuts.

The jigs featured in this chapter pro­vide various ways of obtaining quick and precise results from your router. Some, like the dadoing jigs shown beginning on page 16, reduce the setup time for simple procedures. Others, like the lap joint jig on page 27, allow the tool to produce multiple copies of the same joint in a few minutes...

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PLANNING JIGS

E

very woodworker uses jigs regularly. Marking gauges, combination squares, the rip fence on a table saw, and router bits with ball-bearing pilots are all jigs that are taken for granted. And who hasn’t, at one time or another, made a simple thinga – majig on the spur of the moment to help get a certain job done?

In our shop, we design most of the furniture we make. In developing a new piece, we consider the esthetic and the building process at the same time. Our chairs, for example, have parts that don’t come straight from machine tables because we like them to have a certain stance to support the person sitting on them just so.

Some of our more complex jigs are used in chair making. These sorts of jigs are planned from the outset, tailoring the process to the design...

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ROUTER JIG

Y

ears ago, I worked in an auto body shop, where we hand-formed body panels.

Often we needed two matching panels—one for each side—but we never pro­duced exact mirror images. Subtle differences were easily excused: “You can’t see both sides at the same time,” it was said.

In cabinetmaking, however, matching pieces must be exact duplicates. You usually can see them at the same time. Although some masters can accomplish this freehand, most of us must rely on carefully constructed jigs.

I was lured to woodworking in grade school when the shop teacher put me to work on the props for a Christmas play. I learned early that the time spent on the jig or tem­plate meant time saved and consistency gained.

There are plenty of jigs and fixtures on the market but, like baseball gloves...

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DESIGNING JIGS

I

look at a new tool as a beginning. Once it is taken from its box or crate I read the owner’s manual to learn what the manufacturer suggests the tool can do. Then I stand back and think, “There must be more to it than this.”

Inevitably, by some strange thought process I can’t explain, there appears a mental picture of a jig, sometimes simple enough to test immediately, other times elaborate enough to require a session at what at one time was a drawing board; now, I design on my computer. The new jig might enable the tool to do something its designer never envisioned, or it might increase accuracy with minimum fuss, or it could add a safety factor to a routine operation. In any case, it has to be custom-made since it is rarely available commercially.

I’ve designed dozens of j...

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WORKSHOP GUIDE

 

INVENTORY OF JIG HARDWARE

Wood screws

Oval (below, left) and flat head (below, center) are used for countersinking; round head (below, right) can be Д Г~> removed easily.

Typically avail­able from ‘A to 6 inches long; com­mon head types include slotted,

Philips, and square

 

Washers

Used to help distribute load when using nuts and bolts; lock (center) and split (right) types designed to keep nut from loosen­ing; available in a variety of sizes

 

Toggle damps

Quick-acting damps that are fastened to jigs to hold stock in place

 

Threaded insert

Knockdown fastener used with screws or bolts to join compo­nents; par­ticularly |AY useful in 1L end grain applications

 

Nuts

Used with bolts for

general fastening of wood; standard hex nut (...

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