Category WOODEN TOYS. AND CRAFTS

CUSTOMIZING A DOLLHOUSE

Подпись: A bucksaw in a mini-miter box cuts a piece of window trim to length. Like other scale-size tooh needed for dollhouse-building, the box and saw are available at most hobby shops.

Once the shell of a dollhouse is assembled, the next step is plan­ning the design of its interior and exte­

rior. This section will show you how to install a wiring system, wood flooring, and roofing shingles.

Wiring a dollhouse is easy if you use a lighting kit. The type shown below uses double-copper-band tape with adhesive backing. The step-bv-step procedures that follow will work with most com­mercial kits.

There are many ways to install floor­ing in a dollhouse. Carpet-style floor­ing, made with a suitable fabric that has the texture of carpeting in a miniature scale, is one popular choice. You can also buy sheets of flooring that look much like wood floors; these feature an adhe­sive backing...

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SCALE MODELING

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Once the shell of your dollhouse has been assembled, the decorative ele­ments can be installed. This is one of the most challenging parts of the project. Period furniture, individualized rooms, wallpaper and decorations, lighting, customized window frames, and door­ways all enhance a dollhouse’s appeal. Whether or not these elements are cus­tom-made, assembled from a kit, or selected from ready-made objects, they can mirror the tastes and creative impulses of the maker.

Customizing a dollhouse can involve investing in some specialized equipment. But no special skills—other than patience and time—are required. If the thought of copying a real-life object seems too challenging, you can refer to one of the many dollhouse enthusiasts’ publications available...

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ANATOMY OF A DIE.-CUT DOLLHOUSE

 

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Bricked chimney

Bricks can be simulated with paint or bought at a hobby supply store and attached to the shell (page 95)

 

Shingled roofing

Shingles can be bought pre-cut and stained, or made in the shop (page 94)

 

Strip flooring

Floorboards are available in sheet ‘ form or as pre-cut board lengths; can also be shop-made

 

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Furniture

Available in kit form or ready-made, rep­resenting a variety of styles and pe­riods; can also be custom-designed and built to suit your dollhouse

 

 

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Wiring

Wiring systems vary, from the insulated wire type, embedded in the dollhouse structure, to the hat-copper wire – tape style shown, which is applied to the shell and l...

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DOLLHOUSES

Подпись: The interior of a dollhouse can be made as lifelike as your woodworking skills and patience allow. The interior shown above, built by Carlo Zappa of Montreal, Quebec, comes complete with mini-furnishings, family photos, and other themorabilia.

A well-built dollhouse can survive for as long as an actual dwelling and entertain generations of youngsters— and adults. This chapter will show you how to put the fin­ishing touches on the type of dollhouse you can build from a kit. The emphasis is on pro­ducing a realistic and enter­taining house, one that will be sufficiently well-designed and sturdy to withstand the only real hazard to which it will have to endure: the busy hands of its owner.

Building and adding acces­sories to a dollhouse require a unique skill—the ability to work in miniature...

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TRADITIONAL ROCKING HORSE

image168A deft stroke from an artist’s brush applies the finishing touch to an eye of the rocking horse shown at right. A good part of the appeal of a wooden toy depends on careful finishing. The runners, cross braces, and footrest of this horse were coated with pure tung oil. The rest of the horse was finished with nontoxic paint: four coats of black paint on the entire body, then two coats of white paint to bring out details like the tail, mane, eyes, nostrils, and mouth.

ANATOMY OF A TRADITIONAL ROCKING HORSE

 

Head

Similar to Stand-

 

Tail

Similar to stand-mount – ed horse’s tail (page 66)

 

Vertical

brace

5A" x 5" x 7"

 

body support

:A" x 3" x 24”

 

Runner

VA"xVA"x3&”: made from six laminated wood strips

 

Footrest

Г...

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SWINGING HORSE

 

Designed and built by Fred Sneath of Stony Lake, Ontario, the swinging horse shown at left can be set up indoors or out. The two ropes at the front and the one at the back have rings at the end and can clip onto hooks screwed into ceiling joists. SneatWs version features interchangeable heads.

 

ANATOMY OF A SWINGING HORSE

 

3 /.-inch diameter, ‘/-inch thick

 

SIDE VIEW

 

Footrest

/-inch dowel stock; 12 inches long

 

Head

Horse head can be made as for a stand-mounted rocking horse (page 67); a through mortise is then cut across the bottom end (page £4)

 

Tenon

Sized to accommo date a mortise in the animal’s head

 

beat

2" x 10" x 11 A”

 

Hole for seat locking pin

 

Handle/suspe...

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STAND-MOUNTED. ROCKING HORSE

 

ANATOMY OF A STAND-MOUNTED ROCKING HORSE

 

The rocking horse shown below measures 23 inches high by 33 inches long. It can be fashioned from virtually any stock, although a wood suitable for carving (pine

 

or basswood, for example) should be used for any of the parts that need shaping, such as the head and tail. The legs and body can be con­structed of plywood, which will

 

save you the concern of making sure that the grain follows the length of pieces for maximum strength. However, you will have to cover the plies with edge banding.

 

SIDE VIEW

 

Ear

Cut from A-inch – thick stock; glued to side of head

 

Head

Cut from 1 A-inch – thick stock on band saw and carved and shaped by hand; fastened to top of body

 

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ROCKING HORSES

Подпись: As a way of personalizing a rocking horse, you can design one with interchangeable heads. The deer head shown above, carved by Fred Sneath of Stony Lake, Ontario, has a mortise that fits over a tenon in the framework of his swinging horse, featured on page 78. Glued into the head, the antlers come from a living deer, dropped by a male after its rutting season.

The modern rocking horse, made mobile by curved wood runners or springs, has been a fixture of childhood for most of the 20th Century. The swing and sway of riding an animal undoubtedly has pri­mordial appeal, dating to the time when animals were first domesticated by humans.

This chapter presents detailed instructions for building three different, but equally delightful, rocking horses. The first version, shown in the photo at left and beginning on page 64, comes closest to duplicating the shape, coloring, and appearance of a horse. This horse is attached to a sturdy stand by means of metal rods fixed to the animal’s hooves.

The rods enable the horse to swing pendulum-like without any danger of the toy falling over.

Among the most useful features of this horse are the footrests positi...

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TOBOGGAN

tened to crosspieces. A rope is threaded through the crosspieces and serves two purposes: setting and holding the nose curve and providing a hand-hold for breathtaking downhill rides.

Since the runners also serve as this sled’s deck and seat, it is important to bend them precisely. They should have a radius of 314 to 4 inches, with the curl tightening slightly toward the end. For best results, use a wood with superior bending qualities such as maple or ash planed to % inch thick.

To finish a toboggan, seal the top sur­face with a coat of marine varnish. The bottom should be treated with hot pine tar, available from ski shops. T his will seal the wood and provide a surface to hold the runner wax...

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YANKEE CLIPPER

 

r‘P he design of the clipper shown in 1 this section evolved as a response to the abuse dished out by New Hngland winters—and the young own­ers of these sleds. It is made from care­

 

fully chosen wood, held together by a simple, rugged method of construc­tion. The Yankee Clipper consists of only five main parts: two runners, two stretchers, and a deck. The stretchers

 

are joined to the runners with round mortisc-and-tenon joints, which are then pegged with hardwood dowels. Use a tough wood like ash or oak for the runners and stretchers.

To keep the weight of the sled to a minimum, make the deck from a light species, such as white pine. For maxi­mum strength, glue the deck to the stretchers...

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