SPINDLE-TURNING JIGS

Подпись: Resembling a tuning fork, the diameter gauge shown above can be used like calipers to check the diameter of turned workpieces. The jig is cut from solid wood; the distance between the arms should be slightly wider than the largest finished diameter to be turned. Two screws driven into the inside of the arms can be adjusted to set precise measurements.
SPINDLE-TURNING JIGS

A DIAMETER GAUGE AND A LAYOUT JIG

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Faster turning with preset calipers

To check your progress when spin­dle-turning several identical workpieces, adjust a set of calipers to each finished diameter you need.

Подпись: The layout jig shown above makes it easier to turn multiple copies of spindle work such as table legs by allowing you to scribe layout lines in exactly the same location on every blank. Trace your design on a piece of scrap about the same length as your blanks and wider than their diameter. Drive a nail into the edge of the jig at each point where a transitional element of the design—such as a bead or fillet— begins and ends. Snip off the nail heads and grind the nails to sharp points. Once you have roughed out a cylinder, simply press the jig into the spinning blank; the nails will score the layout lines (above).SPINDLE-TURNING JIGSThis will eliminate the need to read­just one set repeatedly. Use your design of the piece as a guide to set the calipers and a strip of tape to identify the adjust­ment on each one. A cheaper alternative is to make several diameter gauges like that shown in the photo above.

Turning hollowed-out work

Mount the workpiece to a multi-purpose chuck and secure the chuck to the lathe. Turn the inside of the work. Once you are ready to turn the outside, insert the tapered end of the jig into the opening in the work and, holding the auxiliary tailstock in place, advance the machine’s tailstock until it contacts the jig and holds the jig and work securely. Tighten the tailstock and finish the workpiece (above).

SPINDLE-TURNING JIGSSPINDLE-TURNING JIGS

1 Making the tailstock

To support hollowed-out workpieces on the lathe, use an auxiliary tailstock like the one shown above. Turned from hardwood, this simple jig supports the workpiece at the rim only, and rotates along with the lathe’s tailstock, prevent­ing vibration and burning of the work­piece. To make the device, first turn a cylinder from a blank about 4 inches in length, then shape the cone with a roughing gouge and use a skew chisel to smooth the cone and separate it from the waste (above). The size and taper of the tailstock will vary according to the size and diameter of the workpiece; a cone ЗИ inches wide at the base with a 60° taper suits most small work.

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Preserving square corners

When spindle turning workpieces that require a sharp division between turned and square sec­tions, such as the square pommel at the top of a chair leg, wrap a length of duct or masking tape around the blank at the transition line before turning the cylin­der. The tape will help reduce tearout and provide a visual guide to where you should stop turn­ing to preserve your square corners.