1 Building the jig
Small wedges are used for wedged tenons, or to shim cabinets on uneven floors. The jig shown at left allows you to make them quickly on the band saw. (You can also use the same device on a table saw.) Refer to the illustration for suggested dimensions, making sure the hardwood runner fits snugly in the saw table miter slot. Screw the runner to the underside of the base so that the runner extends beyond the tabletop and the base sits squarely on the table when the runner is in the slot; countersink the fasteners. Next, screw the fence to the top of the base; angle the fence at about 4° to the front and back edges of the base. Set the jig on the table with the runner in the slot, turn on the saw, and cut through the base until the blade contacts the fence. Turn off the saw, remove the jig, and cut a slot through the stop block for a machine bolt. Attach the block to the base, adding a washer and wing nut. The block should be flush against the fence with the tip of its angled end aligned with the kerf.
For your wedge stock, cut a strip of cross-grain wood from the end of a board; make it as wide as the desired length of the wedges. Position the jig on the saw table. Holding your stock with its edge flush against the fence and one end butted against the stop block, feed the jig across the table. Make sure your hands are clear of the blade as you cut each wedge (right). To create 4° angle wedges, square the end of your stock on the table saw before each cut. If you simply flip the workpiece between cuts on the band saw, all the wedges after the first will have 8° angles. To produce thicker wedges, loosen the wing nut and slide the stop block slightly away from the kerf. Tighten the wing nut and cut the wedges (inset).